Fully Fashioned: How Knitwear Can Reduce Fashions Waste Issue

This project was conceived for a class related to my minor in sustainability. I chose to look at knitwear as a sustainable option for fashion production, and researched the science behind reducing waste in the industry. A companion video, titled Fully Fashioned: How Knitwear Can Reduce Fashions Waste Issue, was developed to showcase the creation of Look 4 in the collection, Decomposing Memories, and how I approached sustainability when developing the collection as a whole.

Fully Fashioned: How Knitwear Can Reduce Fashions Waste Issue


The fashion industry is in a sustainability crisis. From human rights violations, toxic waste water, and mountains of textile waste, the fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. But how did fashion get this bad? And what steps can be taken to reduce the impact the fashion and textile industries have on the environment? In this essay, we’ll be exploring fully fashioned knitwear, a way of producing garments that results in minimal to zero textile waste. Fashion professionals have been touting the benefits of knitwear for decades, and as we look towards the future of fashion, the future is knitted, not woven. 

In order to understand how much textile waste comes specifically from garment production, we need to first explore how a garment is made. Traditional garment manufacturing involves many different processes, with the first step being to cut out the pattern pieces. This method is called cut and sew, where a paper pattern called a “marker” is placed on the fabric. A marker cannot just be placed on fabric, however, and it must follow the “grain” of the fabric. There are three major grainlines that are used in all cut and sew garments, and in order for the garment to fit properly, grainline rules must be followed. The first, and most used, grain is the straight grain, which runs parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. The second is the cross grain, which runs perpendicular to the selvage. The third, and least used grainline in mass produced garments, is called the “bias”, a 45 degree angle that allows a woven fabric to have stretch. After the marker has been placed following the grainline, the fabric can then be cut out, typically in hundreds of layers. The main issue with this methodology in terms of waste, is that this is not the most efficient use of the textile. Roughly 87% of the fabric is used, while the remaining 13% is considered waste, and will either end up in a landfill or an incinerator. To put it into perspective, in 2019 Bangladeshi garment manufacturers reported 577,000 tonnes of textile waste (Abou-Chakra et al., 2024, pg. 8).

The concept of zero-waste fashion design is not new. In fact, historically, garments used every square inch of a textile to produce a garment. They also had decorative, yet functional details added to garments so that they could change shape and size as the wearer grew up. It wasn’t until the industrial revolution that the fashion industry began to expand rapidly, and develop into the industry we have today. Industry professionals, especially those concerned with the sustainability of the fashion industry, are constantly looking at different ways to improve fashion’s footprint. Knitwear has been universally lauded by professionals, as knitwear can be produced with less textile waste, less manual labor, and significantly reduce the carbon footprint that garment manufacturing already has (Scott et al., 2023, 4.3). The most common machine used for knitting is a Shima Seiki, a Japanese computerized knitting machine that knits garments between two flat beds to achieve a variety of stitch patterns. Hand powered machines are another option, as they use no electricity, and can be used to achieve more complex stitch patterns that a computerized machine cannot. After all the panels have been knitted, they are then passed on for “linking”, the way that knitted garments are, essentially, sewn together. In contrast to this method, Shima Seiki developed a machine that further reduces the time and energy required to produce a single garment with the Wholegarment knitting machine. Instead of two beds of needles, this machine has four beds, and is able to knit an entire garment at once. The result is a completely seamless garment that requires no additional time or energy to produce, in contrast to traditional methods (Peng et al., 2018). 

Currently, the fashion industry operates on a “cradle to grave” approach, where the fiber is produced, spun into yarn, woven into a fabric or knitted into a garment, and once the usefulness of the item is over, it is then thrown away, left to decompose in a landfill. As we begin to navigate a changing world, a new approach has begun to emerge, suitably titled a circular economy. The goal of a circular economy is to slow down the generation of waste, narrow or completely close the loops between materials, and reduce the amount of energy used in garment production (Douglas et al., 2022, 2. Literature Review). However, in order for a circular economy to work, consumers must also be aware of the issues the fashion industry as a whole faces. Studies show that consumers are more likely to purchase a product that is eco-friendly, however they are not willing to pay a higher price (Ting-yan & Wong, 2012). To help showcase how circular fashion could work, megabrand H&M launched “Looop”, a garment to garment recycling system. The system, launched in 2020, involves a complete transformation of an item. A consumer brings a garment, or several, to the Looop system, where it begins by completely shredding the item(s) down to its base fiber, respins it into a yarn, and then uses that yarn on a Shima Seiki wholegarment knitting machine to knit the recycled yarn into a new garment, chosen by the consumer. Although some virgin materials must be added to strengthen the yarn for garment durability, the primary source for the garment is recycled (Circular X, H&M - "Looop" initiative 2020). 

Knitwear has a lot of potential in the fashion industry for helping to navigate the changing world. Knitwear can be made with absolutely no waste, significantly reducing the amount of textile waste that ends up in landfills. Wholegarment knitting machines reduce the amount of labor needed to create a garment, as opposed to cut and sew which has many different stages in production. Additionally, the wholegarment system is able to shift production from a pre-planned model to an on-demand model, essentially allowing the machine to print out the exact number of garments a brand might need, opposed to predicting how many garments need to be made. Finally, the Looop system is able to show consumers a new way to recycle garments, further reducing post-consumer waste that would otherwise end up in a landfill. Knitwear has many great qualities that will allow us to move towards a more sustainable, circular fashion economy. The future is knit. 


Bibliography

Abou-Chakra, K., Archipov, K., Berkovitz, S., Perry, E., & Spellenberg, R. (2024, March 24). Examining cut-and-sew textile waste within the apparel ... https://bren.ucsb.edu/sites/default/files/2024-04/Examining Cut-and-Sew Textile Waste within the Apparel Supply Chain 4.10.24.pdf

Douglas, W., Silva, O., & Costa Morais, D. (2022, August 11). Impacts and insights of circular business models’ outsourcing decisions on textile and fashion waste management: A multi-criteria decision model for sorting circular strategies. Science Direct. https://www-sciencedirect-com.ezproxy1.lib.asu.edu/science/article/pii/S0959652622031304

Peng, J., Jiang, G., Cong, H., Luo, X., & Zhao, Y. (2018). Development of whole garment formed on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. ProQuest. https://www.proquest.com/docview/2074220988?accountid=4485&parentSessionId=1QI%2BlW%2BX5iCXFn0HAuAC1Maa8T6TVwW0kHKwb1hcHZI%3D&pq-origsite=primo&sourcetype=Scholarly%20Journals

Scott, E., Bahmra, T., Mohammed, M., & Johnson, A. (2023, March 24). Investigating knitwear product development in small and Medium Enterprises: A report of practices related to environmental sustainability. Cleaner Logistics and Supply Chain. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2772390923000148

Ting-yan, C., & Wong, C. (2012). The consumption side of sustainable fashion supply chain. ProQuest. https://www.proquest.com/docview/1024664582?accountid=4485&parentSessionId=klf6V7a%2BMwR%2Bzwg%2FhjQlZzyV6Btgavwh1yCXBAgUo24%3D&pq-origsite=primo&sourcetype=Scholarly%20Journals

X, C. (n.d.). H&M - “Looop” initiative. Circular X. https://www.circularx.eu/en/cases/22/h-m-looop-initiative 


Envisioning the Sustainable City

This research paper looks into many possible sustainability solutions to make cities more sustainable. Inspired by my deep passion for sustainable fashion, I developed and designed a city whose entire infrastructure is built around sustainable fashion production, from agriculture to manufacturing.

Section One: Introduction

As climate change continues to unfold, the location where one lives will be vital as to how the changes will affect them. As a result, people will begin migrating more inland, and will move either up north, or down south, as the tropical climates will begin to become unbearable, and eventually, uninhabitable. The city I have designed reflects this desire, and is located near the coastline of Northern Germany. My city, which I’ve named Nachhaltige Mode (literally “Sustainable Fashion”), strives to be the epicenter for sustainable fashion, and the five sustainable development goals I’ve focused on carry my own philosophy towards what sustainability means in the realm of fashion. They are: 9) Industry, Infrastructure, and Innovation, 11) Sustainable Cities and Communities, 6) Clean Water and Sanitation, 2) Zero Hunger, and 4) Quality Education. These goals all work together in harmony to build not only a sustainable city, but also a sustainable community.  

Section Two: Sustainable Development Goals

Nachhaltige Mode’s main goal as a city is to conduct research into and produce sustainable fashion. The city’s ethos is to take a cradle-to-cradle approach to fashion, having the city and its outskirts producing the fibers and textiles used for the clothing, while the city itself creates the garments, allowing for a circular economy approach, while also conducting trade with the rest of the world. 

Industry, infrastructure, and innovation, goal 9 of the UNs sustainable development goals, is the core goal that aligns with my city's desire to be the sustainable fashion capital. The fashion industry as a whole relies on its infrastructure in order to function, as proper infrastructure provides proper structures for the citizens to live and work in. The city also strives to innovate within fashion, developing new textiles, methods of creating garments, and advancements in clothing recycling, which demands proper infrastructure. In “Sustainability in Design: Sustainable Fashion Design practices and Environmental Impact Using Mixed-Method Analysis”, the authors discuss how investing in new, sustainable technologies allows fashion designers to think critically about not only the sustainability of the design, but also the method in which the garments are produced (Ma et al, 2024). One such method of innovation that covers both the sustainability of the design and its production is the Looop system developed by H&M. The system, designed for garment-to-garment recycling, shreds an old garment down to its base fiber, respins it into a new yarn, then uses a Shima Seiki wholegarment knitting machine to effortlessly create a new garment. While virgin materials are required for structure and stability in the new garment, it significantly reduces the amount of needed virgin materials to create the garment (Circular X, 2021). Further, the wholegarment knitting machines, which knit an entire garment in one go, can significantly reduce the amount of garments made during production, as it turns from an estimated guess production method to an on-demand production method, which utilizes less power and resources, effectively reducing the carbon footprint of the manufacturer. With many of these systems placed around the city, they not only provide citizens an engaging way to recycle their clothing, it could be a way to increase travel to the city, as people from all over the world can partake in the system. 

To add on to this goal, my city will also strive to be carbon-neutral as possible, and I believe that the way a city is powered is essential. As Nachhaltige Mode is a coastal city, one such method that could be used to power the city is hydropower. Hydropower is being looked at as one of the most sustainable renewable methods of power, compared to wind and solar. In “Pathway to Energy Transition and Sustainable Environmental Development and Management: Analysis of Hydropower Energy Policy as Part of Climate Actions”, hydropower is researched favorably as the most sustainable of the three, as storing electricity generated from wind and solar can be costly, whereas hydropower offers flexibility in how it’s able to be spread throughout the networks (Yazici et al, 2025). In their findings, they discovered that hydropower actually decreases carbon emissions by roughly 34%, significantly reducing greenhouse gas emissions. 

While the major industry of my city strives to be as sustainable as possible, it’s also important that the city and its communities are also sustainable. Goal 11’s function is to make the cities more resilient and sustainable, with a strong emphasis on public transportation and clean air. With transportation being one of the largest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions, my goal for Nachhaltige Mode is to have different methods of transportation available. I do believe in the idea of private vehicles for transportation, and I do not want to infringe on that on the citizens. However, my plan for the city is to have an above ground trolley system that services individual neighborhoods, an underground rail system that travels all throughout the city, and have several neighborhoods be dedicated to walk and bike-ability. In “The Sustainable Transport Planning Index: A Tool for the Sustainable Implementation of Public Transportation”, the authors discuss the benefits that transitioning away from private transportation to providing a stronger public transportation system has on society, from its reduction of carbon emissions, to a better quality of life for its citizens through less noise, and even creating new, green jobs (Ghafouri‐Azar et al, 2023). For private transportation, my goal would be to completely eliminate gas powered vehicles, having a strong push for electric vehicles to further reduce any carbon emissions. To help cultivate and encourage EV usage, charging stations, powered by my city's hydropower stations, would be placed around the city. My main goal, however, is that a strong public transportation encourages my citizens to utilize it more than they would a private vehicle. 

When looking at the sustainability of fashion, one of the most impactful areas it has on the environment is wet processing, or dyeing fabric and other textiles. This causes a significant amount of wastewater, and much of it cannot be consumed. Goal 6 specifically focuses on clean water and sanitation. As my city is to be responsible for the garments it creates from start to finish, that includes wet processing, and to combat the waste water, several measures will be taken. First, a complete outlaw of synthetic dyes will be issued. “A brief review on natural dyes, pigments: Recent advances and future perspectives” discusses how synthetic dyes have very powerful chemicals in them, many of which are unsafe and carcinogenic, whereas natural dyes exclusively come from natural sources, primarily through different plants and minerals. Natural dyes process for extraction is also more environmentally friendly, with different methods being used to sustainably cultivate these dyes (Yandov et al, 2022). The water used in these processes must go through a sanitization process in order to remove the dye from the water. In “A critical review on the treatment of dye-containing wastewater: Ecotoxicological and health concerns of textile dyes and possible remediation approaches for environmental safety”, the authors look at different approaches to how to effectively treat the wastewater, one of which is a biological approach to removing the dye, an environmentally safe adsorption effect that utilizes microorganisms to remove dye from the water (Al-Tohamy et al, 2022). Finally, access to clean, fresh drinking water is a primary goal of goal 6. As climate change continues, access to water is going to become scarce, and it will be important to look at how a city is able to get its water. One method I would take advantage of for my city is water desalination. With my city being a coastal city, water desalination plants can become a key to providing my citizens with clean, freshwater. “Techno-economic assessment of water desalination: Future outlooks and challenges” takes a look at how this process works and how it can be beneficial to society, but also the challenges it faces. The main issue water desalination faces is the potential for high cost to maintain facilities, as well as the cost of the process itself (Shokri et al, 2022). As my city is located in Germany, I do not foresee the cost of desalination facilities to be an issue, as the GDP of Germany is around 4.5 trillion, making this a moot point. Additionally, Germany is considered a leader in environmental sustainability, and any efforts for sustainability are encouraged. 

With over half the world's population living in large, urban cities, and an increase in urbanization worldwide, there has been a decrease in land used for agricultural purposes. Zero hunger is the second SDG, and I believe that it’s one of the most important issues we are facing with climate change. “Which urban agriculture conditions enable or constrain sustainable food production?” looks at how urban agriculture is a growing trend in large cities, and how its citizens are utilizing these practices to combat food insecurity (Lee et al, 2023). My philosophy for approaching urban agriculture is to have integrated crops be a major selling point of community life in the city. Each neighborhood will have a designated plot of land specific for the community to grow and cultivate different crops. Agritopia, a neighborhood in Gilbert, Arizona, showcases how urban farming can take root in densely populated areas. Known for its community members growing its own produce, Agritopia also boasts a market, where the produce that is grown locally is sold locally (Bunting, ND). In addition to a large community garden, apartment complexes will also be required to have rooftop community gardens that allow its residents to micro-garden. The idea behind having a community garden and rooftop micro-gardens is to foster a larger sense of community. If everyone contributes and grows different crops, the community members will be able to swap, trade, and gift their crops to one another, which can help strengthen community bonds, and allow for a sense of belonging. 

The final sustainable goal that is key to my city is quality education, sustainable development goal 4. Education is vital for sustainability, as an educated society is able to make informed decisions when it comes to issues related to sustainability. UNESCO believes that “Education for sustainable development is the key to unlocking progress in all the global development goals” (UNESCO, 2023). My city’s education curriculum for primary schooling would follow the German standards, as Germany is known for high-quality, compulsory education. To complement these learnings and to lean in to the culture of Nachhaltige Mode being a sustainable fashion capital, students would take culture classes, learning how to garden and grow crops, and learn the different elements and the trade of the fashion industry, including sustainable and zero-waste patternmaking, garment construction, knitwear, and weaving. For higher education, the city would be home to a public research university, specifically focusing on agriculture and the fashion industry. By implementing these measures, children and teens are able to actively engage in community activities, while learning about sustainability and what it means for the future of our planet. 

Section Three: Urban Fabric

The way I would map out Nachhaltige Mode would be to take a very simple grid pattern, like that of Manhattan in New York. This way of city mapping makes it significantly easier to navigate, but it also makes it easier to divide the sections into named neighborhoods, making planning each neighborhood's plot of land for crops easier to plan around. Grid systems also work incredibly well for public transportation, especially for underground rail systems. Many buildings would have rooftop gardens, or solar panels if a garden is not feasible, to help supplement the city’s main source of power, hydropower. The streets would be lined with local flora to both decorate and to provide natural shade. Each neighborhood will also have numerous parks, allowing green spaces for the community to congregate. Green spaces such as these are linked to better mental health and a better quality of life. “The Case for Green Space: A Cost-Effective Mental Health Resource” researches how these green spaces were able to reduce anxiety, depression, and reduce levels of stress (Hoge et al, 2023). 

To further build the city, smaller sub-neighborhoods will provide single family homes, while the neighborhoods main centers will contain a mixture of shops, apartment buildings, and mixed-use spaces. Ideally, local shops and apartment buildings would be integrated, with stores on the ground floor and apartments on the floors above. My approach to this method is to ensure that the city is both aesthetically pleasing, while also being a city that one can easily walk around in, or take public transportation to the area they want to go. By having designated plots of land for gardening, citizens are able to foster a sense of community, while gardening further improves the mental well-being of the people who partake (Ainamani et al, 2022).

The core concept of this city is to be one that is equally just and equitable for both the environment and the citizens who live there. Germany as a whole already has many different programs available to its citizens, including universal healthcare, and mandatory pensions that allow citizens of Germany to retire at 63 (Strong Welfare state, ND). My city aims to continue building off of the already strong social services through culture-based education, while continuing to educate its citizens on sustainable agriculture, urban development, and of course, sustainable practices in fashion. The community gardens also help to reduce food insecurity by making food something the community takes part in. The idea of urban gardening and agriculture is to ensure that there is a surplus of food available, which could help to reduce or eliminate food scarcity and insecurity within the city. 

The five sustainable development goals that my city has focused on work together in harmony to envision a city that is completely independent, while also offering resources and goods for trade. By building a solid infrastructure centered around urban agriculture, the city is able to keep sustainability at the core of how it's built. The education the city enacts is able to not only build a sense of belonging in the community, it also opens the door for new innovations to take place within the different areas the city has focused on. By utilizing hydropower, the city is able to use its coastal status to use a natural resource and energy that’s already integrated into the land, while desalination plants are able to provide clean, fresh water to its citizens. Finally, the crops grown from urban agriculture help to provide a locally grown food source to the residents, which can help to further reduce the feelings of food insecurity. 

Section Four: Conclusion

Although the city of Nachhaltige Mode is nothing more than fantasy, I believe that different elements of the city would be easily translatable to any major city that’s already existing. Green infrastructure can be relatively easy to implement, although it could cost a significant amount of money to make the transition. Hydropower is something that any society can use that is near a large body of water, whether it’s rivers, lakes, or the ocean, as the energy source is already naturally occurring. Educating a society has been proven to be one of the keys to developing a more sustainable world, and by taking on a cultural approach by teaching the cities two major industries, agriculture and fashion, it allows the citizens to use their knowledge to make informed decisions. A city like Nachhaltige Mode could be developed in the future, especially in a country like Germany, which has a very high GDP and is already focused on sustainability. While it would be expensive to implement, many may see it as a form of investment, as over time, the city is able to be completely independent. 







Works Cited

Ma, J., Huang, L., Guo, Q., & Zhu, Y. (2024, June 23). Sustainability in design: Sustainable fashion design practices and environmental impact using mixed-method analysis. https://doi-org.ezproxy1.lib.asu.edu/10.1002/bse.3843 

X, Circular. (2021). H&M - “Looop” initiative. Circular X. https://www.circularx.eu/en/cases/22/h-m-looop-initiative 

Meriç Yazici, A., Ntom Udemba, E., Öztirak, M., Bayram, V., & Mei, Y. (2025, January 9). Pathway to energy transition and sustainable environmental development and management: Analysis of hydropower energy policy as part of climate actions. https://www-sciencedirect-com.ezproxy1.lib.asu.edu/science/article/pii/S0960148124023619 

Ghafouri‐Azar, M., Diamond, S., Bowes, J., & Gholamalizadeh, E. (2023, April 10). The sustainable transport planning index: A tool for the sustainable implementation of public transportation. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/sd.2537 

Yandov, S., Singh Tiwari, K., Gupta, C., Kumar Tiwari, M., Khan, A., & P. Sonkar, S. (2022, December 19). A brief review on natural dyes, pigments: Recent advances and future perspectives. Results in Chemistry. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2211715622004520 

Al-Tohamy, R., S. Ali, S., Li, F., M. Okasha, K., A.-G. Mahmoud , Y., Elsamahy, T., Jiao, H., Fu, Y., & Sun, J. (2022, January 10). A critical review on the treatment of dye-containing wastewater: Ecotoxicological and health concerns of textile dyes and possible remediation approaches for environmental safety. Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0147651321012720 

Shokri, A., & Sanavi Fard, M. (2022, November 7). Techno-economic assessment of water desalination: Future outlooks and challenges. https://www-sciencedirect-com.ezproxy1.lib.asu.edu/science/article/pii/S0957582022009594 


Lee, S., Shin, S., Lee, H., & Sun Park, M. (2023, June 24). Which urban agriculture conditions enable or constrain sustainable food production? https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14735903.2023.2227799

Bunting, S. (n.d.). Agritopia, Gilbert, Arizona. Agritopia in Gilbert, Arizona : UnSprawl Case Study : Terrain.org. https://www.terrain.org/unsprawl/24/ 

What you need to know about education for sustainable development. UNESCO.org. (2023, October 23). https://www.unesco.org/en/sustainable-development/education/need-know 

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Ainamani, H. E., Gumisiriza, N., Bamwerinde, W. M., & Rukundo, G. Z. (2022, August 8). Gardening activity and its relationship to mental health: Understudied and untapped in low-and middle-income countries. Preventive medicine reports. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9389296/ 

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